no.15
Pappardelle with Ossobuco and Gremolata
In my house, ossobuco is the epitome of a Sunday sauce. Requiring just a small amount of upfront prep, then into the oven for a few hours until the meat is tender and the sauce is simply sumptuous. All that’s left is to find the perfect serving vessel, and in the case of today’s newsletter, that vessel is pappardelle.
Although we are just coming out of the cooler months here in Australia, I know many of you reading this will only just be heading into winter. And mentally, I’m with you. Despite the sudden 30c sunny Aussie days, I’m still craving a hearty and comforting, slow-cooked ragu. Perhaps it’s the reward after hours of patiently waiting that I’m after - nothing tastes better than a slow cooked ragu merely for the triumph of the wait.
I have been making ossobuco in variations for many years, but I love this white wine/chicken stock combo which makes this one a little lighter and brighter than the red wine/passata combos I have made in the past. I blend 2/3 of the sauce before reducing for the most glossy and luscious texture - perfect for pappardelle. Amplified by rustic (read: lazily chopped!) gremolata. This is a meal for Sundays if I’ve ever seen one!
Fun fact of the day, ossobuco translates to “bone with a hole” - referring the to marrow found in the cross-cut shank. While more traditional ossobuco is served with a risotto or polenta, I love how its sauce grips to pappardelle - the smooth mouth-feel of the pasta reminding me why I love making it fresh so, so much. Pasta is surely one of life’s most humble luxuries.
How to cut pappardelle
It sounds straight forward enough, but there is a little technique to it. Firstly, and I feel very strongly about this, pappardelle is a shape that really benefits from a bit of thickness - some structure is needed to carry a meaty sauce. Ultra thin pappardelle is not a good time, IMHO.
I like to let the rolled sheet of dough dry out slightly before I even think about cutting it. After a few minutes, dust it generously with fine semolina, or flour - whatever your preference is. As long as you’re dusting it in something to prevent it from sticking.
Make a fold about 2cm in width on one side, then on the other, and keep folding both ends until the meet in they middle.
In one smooth motion, make cuts 2-3cm apart from one end of the other to create ribbons of pappardelle.
Suggested Wine Pairing
I’m going to stick with white wine since this ossobuco is made with white - although of course, you could go either way with a pairing for this one. A light Chardonnay would make a delightful combo - I’m talking mineral-y and un-oaked, rather than the buttery and rich kind. Often referred to as New World chardys - grown in Australia, NZ or the USA, bringing fruity tones of peach and apricot, or if you lean towards more of the Chablis variety - some bright acidity!
Sunday Soundtrack
A sweet soundtrack comprising of 10 songs I’ve been listening to, usually on repeat. Throw it on and get kneading!